Saturday, July 13, 2013

Pretension and Modern Dining

All I remember of its menu, placed in the window during its opening days, is an appetizer of arugula and white beans and a main course of chicken-liver mousse with bacon marmalade and toast. Looking in from outside, I could see a number of tables, chairs, and couches set up among large plants and globes, giving the impression of a vast living room. (The furnishings were all found, hence the name of the restaurant.) “This space is really a personal expression of my full evolution,” declares the owner, Amy Morton, a woman of 50, long in the restaurant business. A friend who recently dined there told me that the waiters, arriving at one’s table, ask, “May we feed you?”

Read the rest of Joseph Epstein here.

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